Few people realize that the Alishan Forest Railway once had an extensive network with numerous branch lines. Today, almost nothing remains of most of these branches, with the Mianyue Line being the notable exception. Hidden beside the road, this tunnel esides the highway No. 18 has survived, although the railway tracks that once led to it have long since disappeared.
One of the most beautiful, yet lesser-known, trails is the 石山引水道. It is neither abandoned nor closed, but it offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of Alishan. It was originally a branch line of the Japanese-built railway used to transport timber out of the forest. After logging operations declined, the railway was dismantled. Because the route had a gentle, level gradient, it was later repurposed as part of the local water supply system. Even today, the water pipes that were installed along the former railway alignment can still be seen.
The almost perfectly level trail leads through a beautiful forest of fallen trees, tangled roots, and spectacular mountain scenery. Chances are you’ll have the place all to yourself, which is ideal if you’ve always wanted to achieve enlightenment in complete solitude. Add a few wild mushrooms to the experience, and before long you’ll be chatting with Bodhisattvas. After hiking about 2 km, your reward is… what looks like nothing more than a hole in the mountainside.
Only when you step inside do you realize that the “hole” is actually the half-buried entrance to a long railway tunnel. Remnants of the tracks and the old support structures are still visible. The tunnel itself is slippery and often has a shallow layer of water covering the floor.
The shrill squeaking overhead and the unmistakable aroma of bat guano are a timely reminder that, despite your recent brush with enlightenment, you’re still very much on Earth.
From this point on, the trail becomes considerably more challenging. Sections of the old railway have collapsed, and the bridge ahead inspires more concern than confidence.
After passing landslide areas, a tunnel, low bridge piers, and more than a dozen steel pipe bridges, hikers reach the water source area in the upper reaches of the Boboyou Creek. Hidden deep within this secluded valley lies the Lulin Front Mountain Waterfall. Travelers who have made the journey in search of tranquility may wish to pause beside the stream and waterfall to enjoy a refreshing break in the cool mountain air.
My guess is that the trail will continue to deteriorate over the coming years, slowly disappearing back into the forest from which it came. The government does not prohibit access, but it is clearly not enthusiastic about encouraging visitors. As few people venture this far, there is a genuine—not merely theoretical—chance of encountering a Formosan black bear. So keep your eyes open, and perhaps avoid looking too much like an easy meal.
Mianyue Trail – the adventurers version
A few years ago, this trail was still something of a hidden gem. Officially off-limits, but in practice largely ignored—until one too many weekend adventurers decided that gravity was optional. After a series of serious accidents, the authorities finally stepped in. It’s a shame, really. The trail was undeniably exciting. Here are a few photos from those days.
Back then, the railway was in a far more neglected state. Roughly every tenth sleeper seemed to be cracked or rotten, and there were no safety railings whatsoever. The only problem was that there was no way of knowing which sleeper would betray you next.
Crawling through a partially collapsed tunnel alone at dawn certainly added a sense of adventure to the hike.
